ESS claims to use a 800hz, 3rd order crossover. Let’s investigate what capcitor and inductors we can actually get, and calculate where the x-over point ends up using parts I can find.
Lets pick out some components….
L1 = Jantzen .5mH 18AWG $7.98
L2 = Jantzen 1.1mH 18AWG $11.48
L3 = Jantzen 0.37mH 18AWG $7.29
C1 = 40uF 250v $11.98
C2 = 2x60uF 250V $20.48
C3 = 75uF 250V $22.98
Let’s proceed to set this up though, let’s model these values in software and see where the x-over point is…
Looks like it hits 806hz at these components, good enough for me.
Update:11-19-19 The Heil has arrived. After some deliberation, constructing a dedicated passive crossover for this setup is inflexible, and given the consideration that I am unlikely to stick with ‘The Horns’ for much longer, I am better served moving to a solution that I can re-use in the next speaker I use. Active digital crossover inbound, and another amplifier.
Good news, the Xterra runs great. Bad news, I continue to never ever get a water pump to seal on the 1st try. Every time, I follow other people’s advice, and use ‘recommended’ sealants, applied in a neat (thin) way. It always leaks. This always results in purchase of a new gasket, followed by gooping the living shit out of it. Bet it works this time. New timing belt is re-installed, hasn’t been tensioned, need to roll the crank a couple times and put my 22lb on it.
Due to a large fabrication project underway I have a lot of box steel to chop up on my vintage Rockwell Model 7V. Blades are not cheap, and I have them made for me. To this end, preservation of the blades is a priority. Designed a magnetic base with captive rare earth magnets, a combination of 6mm and 20mm rare earth units fit, is compact, and secures the mist solution very well. I use sta-lube water soluble oil diluted at roughly 10:1
“The strategy for the discoverers and entrepreneurs is to rely less on top-down planning and focus on maximum tinkering and recognizing opportunities when they present themselves. So I disagree with the followers of Marx and those of Adam Smith: the reason free markets work is because they allow people to be lucky, thanks to aggressive trial and error, not by giving rewards or “incentives” for skill. The strategy is, then, to tinker as much as possible and try to collect as many Black Swan opportunities as you can.”
― Nassim Nicholas Taleb, The Black Swan: The Impact of the Highly Improbable
screw the new mount to the existing linear bearing blocks in a pattern like you were screwing down head bolts on an engine
The nozzle in the thingiverse link is incorrectly sized for my blower fan that came with my Anet, I will design a new one in the near future. As it is, I get great quality with no nozzle at all, and well, it’s less important than you would expect for PLA, which is all I’m printing on this machine at the moment.
recompile marlin to set the extruder to operate inverse of stock
I use a pre-customized version of Marlin 1.1.8 from Here 1.1.8 for use with my Hallon Auto-bed-leveling sensor, though certeinly moving to 1.1.9 in the near future is a thing that will happen.
Download and install Arduino IDE from whereever
Follow this guide to configure the titan extruder within Marlin
M501 – Reads EEPROM data
Install EEPROM editor within octoprint
Calibrate steps per mm 418.50 is the magic number for the E3D-V6 on the 1.8degree Anet steppers
PID bed calibration, enable PIDTEMPBED in marlin, disable BED_LIMIT_Switching
Disable Thermal Runaway for the bed only for PID autotune to work
m303 e-1 s60 c8 1 Autotune PID for the bed 8 count at 60 degrees
resulting values for my bed (mk52 removable spring steel, using the prusa sheet) Kp: 99.41 Ki: 5.08 Kd: 486.61
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 99.41
#define DEFAULT_bedKi 5.08
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 486.61
THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED can be reenabled after PID autotune
M303 E0 S210 C8 1 PID autotune extruder
Resulting values for the E3d-v6 extruder Kp: 20.73 Ki: 1.63 Kd: 65.81
#define DEFAULT_Kp 20.73
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.63
#define DEFAULT_Kd 65.81
X-axis offset is wack compared to original, I think -50mm should get it closer to printing in the middle of the bed, will try this tonight
Upgraded the Anet AM8 to a removable magnetic bed from Here. Went to a 24v power supply for the heatbed only, running through the Mosfet. Spring steel sheet shown is from the stack of heatbeds for the Prusa printers.